Author Archives: dk

April 26  6:15am     We are minutes late to intercept a herd of seven forest buffalo as they cross the primary savanna in front of us.  With a gallery between us, we run, hoping to find them at the … Continue reading →

April 25,  4:45 pm     I spot the sititunga feeding at 60 meters off route bord de mer.  She is meandering through inundated savanna in the late afternoon, just as the sun begins to release its intense grip on … Continue reading →

En route to the forest fronting the Boume’ Boume’ River, we plan to walk the forest quietly, listening for elephants, buffalo, sititunga, animals that may move between forest and savanna in the late afternoon.  We were here at sunrise today, … Continue reading →

Elephant la bas!  John-Noel, our driver exclaimed shortly after turning off primary route onto the route “bord de mer”, a dry season track mostly inundated with water at this time.  Bord de mer lies between the Boume’ Boume’ River and … Continue reading →

It is 7am when we finally reach our point opposite the “grand piste”, our GPS label for an unusually wide forest trail embouchure created by large mammals.  Our plan is to sit quietly for two hours, hoping wildlife will approach … Continue reading →

5:30am, leaving camp with my guide, we walk out into the moisture-laden air of twilight, a faint glow in the eastern horizon balanced by a shimmering amber sky from Shell Terminal in Gamba, a distant 60 kilometers away.  Frogs and … Continue reading →

March 19.      I am relocating to Moulondo, a remote camp some 60 kilometers from Gamba on an undeveloped track between the Nyanga river and village of Panga.  It is the only road connecting Gamba with trading between Chibanga … Continue reading →

It was Sunday, late afternoon, and I had just arrived at the Terminal jetty when Andrew and Kate Benc pulled up and whisked me away to the breakthrough at Berito hut.  It is a long, sandy, rutted track out to … Continue reading →

Shhhhh, Kassa whispered, stopping us in our tracks.  Our guide slipped ahead, concealed beneath overhanging limbs, motioning us slowly and silently forward.  We could hear the ripping of vegetation as an elephant tore its lunch from the trees at the … Continue reading →